Design - Hull - Foils - Deck - Sails and Rigging - Cost
Above - October 10, 2008 - I picked up the Paperjet kit from Oak Harbor Freight Lines on my way home from the airport this afternoon. The kit arrived while I was in Boise, so it had to wait at Oak Harbor for a few days until I came home.
Above - the kit was routed out by Thirdcoastcomposites. It's six sheets of Okoume. I'm warming up the truck on Saturday morning October 11 so Renee and I can go down to Edensaw in Kent and buy some cedar, spruce, fir, poplar and mahogany for the kit and a couple of projects on the Monk.
Above - another beautiful Saturday morning and we're back from Edensaw with $275 worth of lumber for the Paperjet.
Above - Renee helps me rip the spruce and fir for the spars and hull stringers.
Above - the spruce needed for the three spars, mast, boom and topmast. I picked up some System Three epoxy and filleting blend while I was at Edensaw.
Above - I use the plans and backbone piece to locate the saw cuts in the building stock and also to get the angle of the cut for the front of the building frame.
Above - the frame with central 4mm cut and the frame cuts made - ready for assembly. But first, I have to go down to the Monk tomorrow and fit the cedar strips to the inside of the hull to finish out the seat and deck project.
Sunday - October 12 - After coming back from installing cedar ceiling in the Monk, I return to the garage/shop to cut out the transom and transom doubler and glue them together. I use a block plane to clean the wood flashing off the edges, the plane insures a smooth and straight job, but a couple of the frames have a slight curve to them, so be careful to sight the lines before planing or sanding to make sure you don't straighten any hull curvature out.
Above and below - the transom doubler glued to the transom and lots of weight applied for overnight setting up.
Columbus Day 2008 - A Federal holiday so I need to get some work done here. Below - First thing I have to do is cut out all the pieces of the Paperjet in defiance of Dudley's instructions - simply because I don't have room to store the six sheets of plywood pieces, so I mark all the pieces with their numbers or letters and cut them all out and store them on the shelf above the workbench.
Below - the transom assembly is cured and ready to go.
Below - I fit the backbone of the frame to the central rail of the building stock in order to mark the forward angle cut. The instructions state the backbone should protrude forward of the rail by 4mm.
Next I assemble the sawhorses and the building stocks per the plans and instructions.
I use a trucker's hitch to pull the frames into alignment and attach the cross-braces to keep the rails square. This Home Depot Douglas fir is not very straight.
The I finish cutting out all the panels and pieces, label them and store them.
Above - I use the mallet Renee made at the Center for Wooden Boats boat building class to assemble the bulkheads to the forward backbone. This is bulkhead four being sent home.
With bulkheads 2 and 4 installed to the backbone and the backbone inserted into the grooves in the rail, tie-wrapped in place, I begin to align everything.
Above - the backbone sits 4mm forward of the rail. Below - the cross-member is cut way to allow the rail to pass. The cross-member is not on the plans or in the building instructions, I added two of them to help keep the building stock lumber straight and aligned and to take some of the twist out of the boards.
Below - I square the bulkheads to the backbone and mark their locations on the rails.
Below - I assemble the aft backbone with bulkheads 6 and 8.
Above - I cut a couple of pieces of mahogany into the size needed for the fore and aft daggerboard casing. I used the table saw to rip 4mm grooves about 6mm deep.
Above - the fore and aft daggerboard frames fit onto the backbones. Below - the sides of the daggerboard case dry-fit for marking and alignment of the frames.
Below - I fit the transom to the aft backbone and epoxy it into place, using tie wraps to keep it snug in the groove.

Below - I epoxied the daggerboard casing frames to the backbones; then I cut some fir to make the top and bottom daggerboard case frames that fit on the outside of the case sides and epoxied them to the daggerboard case sides.

Good thing I marked them right and left "outside" because I had the right side glued up and when I took a photo I noticed I could not see the word "outside" on the case.

Quickly removing the frames and gluing them to the correct side of the casing (with the word "outside" facing me now) made me think maybe it was time to take the rest of the day off and go for a walk around the lake. So we did.

End of the first full day of assembly has the Paperjet frame sitting on the building stocks with transom epoxied in place and daggerboard casing well along.
Below - the scrap plywood support for the case frames.
Next step is to assemble the daggerboard case to the backbones, glue them up and square all the bulkheads and install the bulkhead supports. I'll level the stocks and square everything up again for a final check before proceeding.
October 18 - I align the bulkheads, level the frame and generally just get everything positioned perfectly according to the drawings.
It takes me a couple of hours of measuring, clamping, measuring, leveling and fiddling to get everything perfectly aligned and straight and level and plumb and screwed down to the stocks. I make sure the backbone is straight and all the lines are fair.
Then I glue up the daggerboard case.
Above and below - while the daggerboard sets up, I rip some fir that I bought at Edensaw into 12mm x 12mm stringers.
Above - I have to scarf a piece onto the bottom stringers to make it 13 feet long.
Above - the stringers run out at the bow, some shaping here will be necessary.
Above - clamping the stringer scarfs while the epoxy sets up.
Above - I begin to join the hull panels by sanding the shallow vees into the butt ends with my sander.
Above - ready to be epoxied together with fiberglass cloth.
Above - the panels glued and paint cans providing clamping pressure.
Below - October 19 and I flip the bottom and side hull panels over, sand the shallow vees into the opposite sides and lay the fiberglass in the epoxy. I lay wax paper over the joint and use a squeegee to work the epoxy into the cloth.
Below - the cloth fully wetted out with wax paper separating the panels. I used an extra piece of wax paper on the left side of the photo because I got sloppy with the epoxy and I don't want to glue the two panels together when I stack them and apply paint can pressure.
Above - second side of the hull panels setting up with the paint cans providing clamping.
Above - the scarfed stringers showing the lines of the hull.
Above - I glue the stringers to the frames.
Above - I use the method described by Dudley in the instructions to twist the stringers into alignment with the forward section of the backbone. I use two clamps forward tied together with a tie-wrap. I also used two clamps farther back behind bulkhead 2 to help hold the stringers in proper alignment. Worked very well.
October 25 - I lay the bottom panel on to mark the daggerboard case for trimming. Below - I mark the case with a black marker.
Above - the area that needs removal for the hull panel to fit.
Above - minor adjustments to the mark after sanding it down a bit and re-checking the panel for fitting.
Above - you can see how the stringers have a slight gap that Dudley talks about in the instructions - they'll need pulling down after the panels are glued up and fastened together.
Above - the daggerboard case bottoms faired for the hull panels.
I lay the panel on to check that the lines remain fair. Below - You can see how the angle of the trimmed case is greater at the forward end than at the aft end - per the instructions.
Above - I don't want to epoxy the backbone to the building frame, so I lay masking tape in the groove to prevent gluing it to the rail. Then I mask the forward end of the rail in preparation for the nose piece that I am gluing up in the photo below.
Above - the nose piece fit and epoxied and adjusted and screwed and tie-wrapped to the backbone. Below - clamps to hold the nose piece to the doubler.
Below - I finish the day by coating the forward lower portion of the backbone and stringers with epoxy per Dudley's suggestion in the instructions because this area is very difficult to access with the hull panels installed. Especially the bottom of the stringers.
Design - Hull - Foils - Deck - Sails and Rigging - Cost